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Thanks Mod 80,

You remind me of a partial answer to my own question; in Taanis it discusses how a na’ara in aveilus R”L may be able to wash with cold water and wear her makeup.

Unclear how society worked back then though in terms of making shidduchim etc.

But the Mechaber discusses how grave it is for man to smell a woman’s perfume… so I just wonder if the gemara means that she should be presentable, not necessarily actively enhancing her appearance.